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Lively, informed historic-and ethnic-themed tours led by guideswith advanced degrees in history. Check online calendar or callfor meeting spots. Adults $15, seniors $12, and students $10.No reservations required; schedule subject to change in caseof inclement weather. Chic, comfortable, and quite possibly the best hotel value in Tribute Visitors� Center (opening fall 2005) African Burial Ground

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Standard tickets (BIT) for buses, trams, and metro are valid for75 minutes from time of stamping. The BIT ticket allowsunlimited transfers on buses and trams, but only one transferon the metro (e.g., between lines A and B). Single-ride ticketsare $1.25. Daily tickets (BIG) cost $5 and are valid for 24 hoursof unlimited travel from time of stamping. Three-day touristtickets (BTI) cost $14 and are valid until midnight on the thirdday of use. Weekly tickets (CIS) cost $20 and are valid for unlimited Three-hour general orientation tours that are educational andentertaining. For example, a tour might mix smart tips for making Via del Biscione 76, 011-39/06-6880-6873, solealbiscione.it PARIOLI THE VATICAN & PRATI 011-39/06-6992-4555, casahoward.com Piazza di Firenze 28 (at Via dei Prefetti), 011-39/06-683-2630, You could live around the corner for years and never think toeat here, but this is a real standout amid the casual trattoriasjust north of Largo Argentina. Consistently delicious Romandishes, such as bucatini all�amatriciana (zesty tomato andpancetta pasta) and fiori di zucca (stuffed zucchini blossoms) areserved in a rustic and homey atmosphere. Closed Mon.

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$ The largest and best known city in the Bahamas is Nassau. Located The Bahamas, still very much steeped in their traditional fast-food chains are represented: McDonalds, Burger King, KFC.

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Tourist Information 31 � between the islands by Bahamasair, the national carrier. Charter with the same standards as in the United States, have had no small influence. Some say the Bahamian accent And then there�s the clothing. Bahamians love bright colors.

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Fishing water (or ice). At low-snow times, this route may be closed, so check at the notice the large display showing their locations. Ask for a copy of the booklet is open April through October and overlooks the long, narrow trees. A few side roads lead to tiny fishing villages, two of which have ferries Tree, with picnic tables on a mowed can distinguish individual houses. It�s fun to go home and tell your friends

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ATLANTIC survey their realm. Although the CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND12 are the most spectacular in Ireland, got a top-to-toe refurbishment in � Irelandhotels.com (www.ireland cross, and, worse, its waves brought poet laureate of Sligo. Nearby, Leitrim�s

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and scale of the changes occurring in Ireland today are without precedent. And is breathtaking. Kinsale has the Norman castle in Ireland. for the dead. Carrowmore is You can play it as safe or as always restrained. See p. 363. unusual. Instead of its shores sloping charming �capital,� the town of Clifden.

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Traveling Around Italy: Discount train cards & passes National call center, 89-20-21 (within Italy), trenitalia.com Note: Always dial the full city code (06), whether calling fromabroad or making local calls within Rome. city heritage plaque on the outside of the pink-stuccobuilding). Roll out of bed into the bustling market of Campode� Fiori, look out over rooftops and church domes from themultilevel interior garden, and take your pick of the hundredsof cheap and lively restaurants and bars within a five-minutewalk. From $139 ($120 with shared bath). Cash only. Hotel Copped. Piazza di Firenze 28 (at Via dei Prefetti), 011-39/06-683-2630, Bar del Fico

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kids under four ride free. Passes do not include theadditional fee for tickets that require reserved seating. Standard tickets (BIT) for buses, trams, and metro are valid for75 minutes from time of stamping. The BIT ticket allowsunlimited transfers on buses and trams, but only one transferon the metro (e.g., between lines A and B). Single-ride ticketsare $1.25. Daily tickets (BIG) cost $5 and are valid for 24 hoursof unlimited travel from time of stamping. Three-day touristtickets (BTI) cost $14 and are valid until midnight on the thirdday of use. Weekly tickets (CIS) cost $20 and are valid for unlimited some English, but speak slowly), and an automatedsystem will tell you the medallion number (e.g., Parma 31) lectures, and walking tours. Weekly at newsstands, English- CENTRO STORICO Downloaded free from BudgetTravelOnline.com Budget Travel Snap Guide | Rome 3 Via dei Barbieri 25, 011-39/06-686-9660, renatoeluisa.it

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local glassblowing industry began and as this road crawls around the artists who revived the ancient art free concerts are held April through Michelangelo�s first great sculptural almost every inch of wall and ceiling castle into a weird piece of yesteryear. across Italy get the chance to play

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. its narrow streets, the old British forts, climb the Queen�s Staircase son and drives an aging Chevrolet that rarely starts. It doesn�t phase scheduled cruises to the Bahamas. Royal Caribbean Potter�s Cay dock at the Paradise Island bridge, some 20 The People HOTEL

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It can be difficult to hail a taxi on the street in the center ofRome. Instead, go to a taxi stand; there�s one at most majorsights, including Piazza di Spagna, Piazza San Pietro, near thePantheon in Piazza delle Cinque Lune, and near theColosseum at Piazza Venezia by Via dei Fori Imperiali. To havea cab pick you up at a specific address, call one of Rome�sradio-taxi cooperatives (Radiotaxi 3570, 011-39/06-3570; TrovaRoma For less comprehensive concert listings, cinemas, contextrome.com Via del Biscione 76, 011-39/06-6880-6873, solealbiscione.it strip of Via dei Condotti. Rustic rooms are bright and polished, $SPLURGE

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opera house La Scala, home 3 years after a massive fire. the world not supported by pylons. marble chips in swirling patterns; Alps, a massive pile of pinnacles blasphemy for portraying this holiest looks eerily as if it were Built in the 1850s, it was doomed

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through the waters of Venice�s the way with an optional fish Judgment. This was a common great sculptors decorating the magnificent later. See p. 266. new museum on Tirolean history Catholic countries, the week 16th-century villa into a wellappointed

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on Liguria & the Italian Riviera, see and Cleopatra, though this collection 13th-century Portuguese-born St. Mexico to be emperor and ended (outside Turin): Sicilian baroque � Biennale d�Arte (Venice): One of Ruskin, Henry Ford, Mick Jagger, See p. 104.

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not only the affluent of the world, but vacationers of every class and Thick vegetation, mostly shrubs and bushes, covers most of the Out considering is Club Med. They have resorts on Paradise Island of British Commonwealth countries do not need visas. fare is making its way onto Bahamian tables. You can find a good available.

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FINANCIAL DISTRICT / T R I B E CA M I DTOWN W E ST SEE 120 Liberty St., 911wvfa.org, projectrebirth.org $S P L U R G E 176 Church St., 212/240-9800

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Purchase bus tickets from the ticket machine or pay extra onboard. Buy metro tickets from the tabaccherie (tobacco stores) and there�s a higher rate 10 p.m.�7 a.m. and on Sun.; (Ask for English-language films in �versione originale�) Via della Fonte d�Olio 8, 011-39/06-580-3797, villafonte.com Via dei Cestari and Via di Santa Chiara The liturgical outfitters on these narrow streets just south ofSEE