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TIP Context: Rome Esquilino 37, 011-39/06-474-4776); TicketOne (ticketone.it) TIP Via Boezio 31, 011-39/06-687-4030, colorshotel.com being buffalo mozzarella. In this slick caf., mozzarella (don�tcall it cheese) in many forms�braids, blobs, balls�is pairedwith salami, prosciutto, and bottarga (dried fish roe). You could live around the corner for years and never think toeat here, but this is a real standout amid the casual trattoriasjust north of Largo Argentina. Consistently delicious Romandishes, such as bucatini all�amatriciana (zesty tomato andpancetta pasta) and fiori di zucca (stuffed zucchini blossoms) areserved in a rustic and homey atmosphere. Closed Mon.